Management Mode and Monarchs

The biggest moment was after the models had exited the catwalk at Gucci’s Piazza Oberdan theater and designer Frida Giannini held Lee in a long embrace, before sliding off, thumbs up, backstage.

The fashion capitals have been obsessed with Gucci’s sudden and unexpected announcement that Lee will quit the house at the end of this year, after driving Gucci’s bottom line to be the heftiest - with nearly $1 billion net profits in 2007 - in Italian luxury.

“This is the reason,” responded Lee with a smile to FWD, pulling two color photocopies of his pet beagles, Sam and Dudley, out of his inside pocket. “I want some time in New York, to enjoy our house in Bedford. I need a break. And isn’t it hard to think of a better time to leave?”

the thin American insisted, as Gucci Group President Robert Polet hovered nearby. Asked about financial reports that Lee had been shunted out after a badly flat first quarter for Gucci, Francois Henri Pinault, the scion of the French family that controls Gucci Group, brushed aside any such suggestion. “Oh, come on. We had over 600 million euros in profits last year at Gucci.

Okay, we had a bad first quarter but a strong second one. We are rational business people, you don’t get rid of an executive because of a bad quarter after such a great performance for so many years,” Pinault insisted. Giannini, who invariably takes her bows wearing pants, and did so again with a cool set of fatigue trous, crammed her runway with pants.

This is one designer not afraid to make a brand in her own image. From a natty and charming striped pants suit worn with white trilby by model Natasha Poly, who opened the show, and cut off at the ankle Christmas cracker print jeans, to jodhpur-fatigues and a great selection of camouflage battle pants ideal for clubbing, the legs were the heart of the matter.

Though, admittedly, this was camouflage that would never see jungle action, combat pants that strayed no further than a cocktail party. “It is a collection for explorers,” explained Frida backstage.

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Jewels return to runway at Milan Fashion Week

Baubles and bangles have returned to the Milan runway after several seasons locked tightly in the jewelry box. Even at Jil Sander, the most minimalist of labels, diamond studded earrings sparkled from the models’ pierced ears. In general the jewelry is down to earth, with the novelty of pieces of wood used to fashion necklaces and bracelets.

Ethnic jewelry of the silver-and-stones kind is also popular. Earrings tend to be large and dangling, like the ones at Marni made out of heavy stone and crystal appliques. Bracelets usually come in strands, wrapping around the wrist like a cuff.

Cavalli chose a more classic style in glittering gold and stone to go with his mini ball gowns. Gucci was meant to be the highlight of a slow day in Milan, but although chocked with wearable styles, it never reached the fashion spheres of past seasons.

Gucci did stick with the bejeweled theme, with large brooches holding gowns together and a palette based on precious stone hues.

In the evening, the fashion crowd gathered for a gala dinner presentation of actress Gwyneth Paltrow’s video clip, directed by Dennis Hopper, to promote the latest Tod’s bag.

Named “Pashmy Dream,” it is a large ultrasoft leather sack adorned with copious leather tassels. (more…)

Jeffrey Ross kicked off

 
The comedian, who suffered a scratched cornea after his professional partner, Edyta Sliwinska, accidentally poked him during a rehearsal Monday, was the first star eliminated from the seventh season of ABC’s dancing competition. The pair received a score of 14 out of 30 from the judges — the lowest of the night — for their cha cha cha routine.

“I’m more ha ha ha than cha cha cha,” Ross joked while wearing a glittery eye patch.

Before Ross was dismissed, each couple performed a new dance Tuesday. Model-actress Brooke Burke again dominated, scoring a 26 for a quickstep routine. The former host of E!’s “Wild On” and her partner, Derek Hough, also claimed the top score Monday. The night’s lowest score went to “Married With Children” actor Ted McGinley.

The remaining celebrities include chef Rocco DiSpirito; NFL star Warren Sapp; TV personalities Burke and Kim Kardashian; singers Lance Bass and Toni Braxton; Olympians Misty May-Treanor and Maurice Greene; and actors McGinley, Cloris Leachman, Cody Linley and Susan Lucci. Another star was to be eliminated Wednesday.

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Lisa Kudrow to topline

The carmaker is launching an Internet-only branded channel Tuesday (September 23) stocked with a full slate of original programing headlined by Kudrow in a shortform comedy series in which she plays a nutty shrink.

The choice of the Emmy-winning Kudrow for the lead role in “Web Therapy” should bring attention to what Lexus is calling L Studio, available at LStudio.com.

But the creation of a marketer-branded broadband channel also is bound to get attention given its only precedent: Bud.TV, a similar venture Budweiser kicked off after the Super Bowl in 2006 only to watch it fail after a reported $30 million investment.

“We learned from some of the mistakes that they made in the beginning,” said Sandy Blanchard, owner experience manager at Lexus’ marketing division, who oversees L Studio.

Blanchard would not divulge the budget for L Studio but made clear that it is not in the ballpark of $30 million.

“We were pleasantly surprised as to what we were able to accomplish with what the budget was and the fact that we have people of the caliber of Lisa Kudrow,” she said. (more…)

Cannes and Gabbana

“Fun in Cannes,” beamed Stefano Gabbana backstage after the show, which mixed 1930s beachwear, promenade style and yachting insignia.

Call it “Nautically natty”, or “nattily nautical”, which ever you prefer. Stefano and Domenico Dolce had telegraphed their intentions with their invitation, a series of crafty jokes beneath classic naval flags.

The models sashayed out like saucy posh pirates, attired in silk blouses in rope,

sail and reef prints. Other standouts were the high-waist hot pants and trousers in denim with deckhands front bibs, jaunty jackets for a sunset cocktail and elongated cardigans.

Created largely in red, white and blue, there was a fine French, joie de vivre about every look, from the stripped pants suits to the knit ribbed bathing costumes. (more…)

Broadway Concierge & Ticket Center opens

At the center, visitors can purchase full-price theater tickets, make restaurant reservations and book hotel rooms. Restaurants are listed with menus and price range as well as by location.

Imagine running from 52nd Street to 42nd Street — right through Times Square at 7:45 p.m — because you’ve made reservations at a restaurant that was too far away from where you are going to see a show. It’s more common than you think.

“For the best possible theater experience you may want to dine near your theater, so you have more time to eat and need less time to get to your theater,” St. Martin cautions.

The center is located in the Times Square Information Center, 1560 Broadway, between 46th and 47th Streets. Hours of operation: Monday through Saturday 9 a.m.-7 p.m.; Sunday 10 a.m.-6 p.m. (more…)

BOWS AT BAROCCO

He dressed models in ruffles and bows, with black and cream frocks that looked as effortless as a shot of chiffon wrapped and tied in a bow.

Sheer see-through blouses were worn with skinny skirts embroidered with bursts of chrysanthemums, a motif used both for neutral shades or powerful purple and crimson for evening wear. Swimwear — for these collections are nominally spring and summer 2009 — was draped rather than stretched over bodies in tanga-style all-in-ones. Stylishly subdued leopard and tiger print was used for the costumes and for soft, full silk or chiffon coats to throw over.

Scarpa, who is based in the lagoon city of Venice, took inspiration from its trademark fabrics and used damask and watermark prints alongside traditionally inspired lace.

Coffee and cream swirled on silk like a rainstorm on water while damask print trousers were topped with sheer chiffon blouses or embroidered lace tunics.

Necklines were slashed to the navel while hemlines were either ground level or high as the thigh. (more…)

Sculpted Samurai Geometry

In what was definitely Milan’s most anticipated show this week the duo concentrated their skills on two key facets of Ferre’s oeuvre - his famed architectural volumes and the late designer’s unique sense of grand, ruffled style.

Curiously, the Ferre it most recalled to mind was Gianfranco’s fertile, and grandest period, as couturier of Christian Dior, back in the early Nineties. But the use of exceptional fabrics, sense of haute gamme novelty and experimental cutting were all very much in synch with Gianfanco’s DNA.

From the first look, a technical silk shirt and white organza shirt, both of them mega ruffled, it was clear that Aquilano and Rimondi had delved deep into the house’s huge archives.

Their opening looks were too weighed down with Plexiglas accoutrements, but the show suddenly hit its stride with sculpted dresses, kicked up with huge flayed pockets, and lovingly embroidered with tough “samurai” trim. (more…)

2008 Emmy red carpet

Few risks and a lot of return on Emmy red carpet. Still the payoffs were big for some stars. Christina Applegate, Mariska Hargitay, Julia Louis-Dreyfus and Sandra Oh were among the confident women who best combined elegance with some personality. What else ruled the red carpet?

Gowns in shades of purple; dresses with one shoulder or none; and sweeping updos that helped stars beat the Los Angeles heat.

There also were black dresses, white dresses, black-and-white dresses and a lot of shine. “Grey’s Anatomy” star Oh was one of the big fashion winners, redeeming herself for time previously served on a few worst-dressed lists.

Lisa Rinna, TV Guide Network’s style commentator, picked Oh as the most improved star. She came in a retro-style black lace dress by Oscar de la Renta with a ribbon sash and a few sparkles on the skirt.

They matched her gleaming 5.5-carat (each!) emerald-cut diamond earrings by Bulgari. Applegate, star of ABC’s “Samantha Who?” (more…)

Dundas will start on October 1

Dundas will start on October 1 and replaces Matthew Williamson who is leaving after three years at the brand.

Dundas was artistic director at Emanuel Ungaro until 2007 and before that was chief designer at Roberto Cavalli from 2002 to 2005. He also worked as a designer with Christian Lacroix.

Emilio Pucci is known for its colorful, abstract and psychedelic designs on silk, favored by stars such as actress Nicole Kidman and singer Kylie Minogue. T

he house was founded by Marquis Emilio Pucci and took off during the 1950s on the back of a streamlined ski outfit he designed which featured in Harper’s Bazaar. (more…)

Vivienne Westwood

Before 1,500 fans, the biggest fashion audience of the London season, Westwood served up a fluid, femininely saucily series of clothes, far removed with the dominant trends in London, prehistoricism and revamped Eighties futurism.

If anything, Westwood’s soft, “flou” ruffled trimmed looks recalled Fifties Britain when a newly sexily audacious woman was finally beginning to feel free to flaunt it while she had it. And flaunt it they did in this show, which featured one model in a gold pants striding bare-chested down the massive anthracite colored catwalk in Earl’s Court.

What was coolest about this collection is that where Westwood’s clothes can drift into over-ripe historicism, this was a collection that seemed fresh, contemporary and very easy to wear. (more…)

Outfits to watch at the Emmys

These days, designers use the carpet as a second runway and stylists keep their clients picture perfect. Still, armchair fashion critics want to have their say, even if it’s only to say how great everyone looks. Here are some buzz-worthy candidates to keep an eye on: Tina Fey

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Christopher Kane

With every second dress and top cut with multiple scallop trim, sleeves and edges, the spring 2009 collection show on Tuesday had a lizard like quality from the sensational opening look, an orange animal print sponge wool sweater over a jagged edged yellow leather skirt.

Kane paired this opening salvo with similarly themed leather frock coats and bomber jackets, all worn over some sensational looking armadillo-styled, spiky heeled, platforms.

He took a similar tack for night, with the curvy edges used on super delicate chiffon and silk mini cocktails, long gowns and peg legs pants. (more…)

Gucci denies ousting CEO

Gucci Group, parent company of the Gucci brand, surprised investors late on Tuesday by announcing that Lee would resign at the end of the year, after more than 12 years with the group, “to pursue other interests.”

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Fashion capitals hammer out

BFC Chairman Harold Tillman said in a statement that the four fashion capitals agreed to secure London a five-day slot on the global fashion calendar.

That means London loses one day from its current six-day catwalk schedule.

“I am delighted that this meeting has brought our fashion capitals closer together,” Tillman said. “It has highlighted our interdependence, commitment to nurturing talent and our sharing of ideas and goals.”

The agreement means London, which generates some 100 million pounds in business and 50 million pounds in media advertising, will not be squeezed into a four-day sprint.

That would have forced the BFC to consider making decisions about two-tiered schedules or juggling its commitment to cutting-edge youth designers against big-drawing names such as Vivienne Westwood and Paul Smith . (more…)

Serena Williams

“Serena Williams is one of the world’s most remarkable athletes,” Grand Central editor Karen Kosztolnyik said Tuesday in a statement. “We’ve watched her rise to No. 1 despite physical and emotional setbacks, and her hard work and determination have inspired legions of fans young and old. Serena will give her memoir a strong motivational slant.

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London Fashion Week

A BFC spokeswoman told Reuters that New York, which precedes London, would like to change its dates and stage an eight-day fashion week, leaving London with as little as four days to hold its event before the Milan shows begin. (more…)

Fashionistas find buzzwords

Industry observers say the language of fashion is changing thanks to fashion blogs and reality television, where shows like “Project Runway” have popularized fashion terms. Now, competition is high to attain originality and avoid cliches. On the sidelines of New York’s fashion shows this week, fashionistas gushed their favorite jargon to capture their approval or distaste for the latest looks. While time-honored classics like “fabulous” and the perennial “chic” are still in abundance, (more…)

Fashionistas find buzzwords

Industry observers say the language of fashion is changing thanks to fashion blogs and reality television, where shows like “Project Runway” have popularized fashion terms. Now, competition is high to attain originality and avoid cliches. On the sidelines of New York’s fashion shows this week, fashionistas gushed their favorite jargon to capture their approval or distaste for the latest looks. While time-honored classics like “fabulous” and the perennial “chic” are still in abundance, (more…)

Underwater fashion show

With no catwalk in sight, nine sharply dressed models climbed up a ladder and plunged into a large tank of water in Australia’s first public underwater fashion shoot, delighting tourists and passers-by in Sydney’s picturesque Circular Quay.

Australian celebrities Shannan Ponton, Jamie Wright, Jaynie Seal and Kristian Schmid pose for photographers during the first ever underwater fashion show in central Sydney September 10, 2008. AP

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